DAY 10

“It is not in the stars to hold our destiny but in ourselves.” – Julius Caesar, William Shakespeare

Today was the pinnacle of teenage Alyssa’s pipe dream: pilgrimage to Stratford-Upon-Avon to pay respect to the Bard. Walking the streets, I kept hearing Cole Porter’s “Brush Up Your Shakespeare” on repeat. (Kiss Me Kate is one of my very favorite Golden Age musicals.) Later in the day, the soundtrack transitioned to Something Rotten.

I can firmly say that today is easily in the top 3 best memories from my trip so far. Now, I still have a few days to go so anything could still happen. But, having a private tour of the RSC, seeing both his birthplace and final resting place AND just feeling the energy of such an artistic town? COME ON. It was special.

Here’s the breakdown:

Blockley Cafe – I never got the chance to eat a full meal here, but did have a nice latte (that seemed to have a decent amount of espresso). The Village Shop is connected and that’s where I’ve bought a few snacks and drinks during my stay here in the Cotswolds.
Stagecoach – Yes, they are called stagecoaches or coaches (not bus). I think I finally have the time table figured out because today’s timing worked out nearly perfectly! Also, only £2 per trip! That has been super easy on my budget!
Hobson’s Patisseries – A tiny paterisserie and tea shop in a stucco and timber Tudor shop. I was able to get a quick “hog roast” roll (British pork, stuffing, apple), peach gateau and tea. This roll was much better than the one I got from Tesco last week! The gateau probably looked better than it actually tasted…but don’t get me wrong, it was still good.
Shakespeare’s Birthplace – Am I glad I visited? Yes. Was it worth the £20 entrance fee? No. Not even close. But the gardens were cool. Hot tip: if you’re in Stratford, skip it and spend that money on a bite and drink at the Dirty Duck (assuming it’s open by the time you visit).
Holy Trinity Church – Utterly breathtaking. I know, I know…ANOTHER CHURCH?! News flash: I’m in England. This church predates Shakespeare by about 400 years. Most of the structure was built around 1100 AD. Shakespeare was baptized in the font as a baby, was married here and is now interred in its chancel. Fun fact: Shakespeare basically planned his funeral and wanted to make sure he and his family were buried within the church walls as the churchyard was often disrupted and old bodies could be lumped together in a mass grave. His epitaph is quintessential Shakespeare. Good friend, for Jesus’ sake forebeare, To digg the dust enclosed heare; Bleste be the man that spares thes stones, And curst be he that moves my bones.
Royal Shakespeare Company – The RSC is probably the most famous classical theatre company in the world. The RSC’s costume department is the largest in-house costume-making workshop in British theatre and ‘world-renowned’. A few months ago, I sent out a couple of emails to department heads at The RSC in the hopes of a behind-the-scenes tour. How often am I in the neighborhood? I may as well shoot my shot! AND IT WORKED. Being granted this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity was thrilling and surreal. To breathe in the creative space that’s been home to Sir Laurence Olivier, Vivian Leigh, Judi Dench, Emma Thompson, Alan Rickman, Kenneth Branagh, Alex Kingston, David Tennant, Ian McKellan, Patrick Stewart, Maggie Smith, Benedict Cumberbatch…need I go on? I tried my best not to go completely fangirl when we were walking backstage at the Swan, stepping into fitting rooms, passing through costume and props departments. And I did my very best to adhere to the strict “no photographs” policy. What rubbish!